Dish of the Week: Cornbread hoecakes at B’s Cracklin’ Barbecue in Riverside

B's Cracklin' cornbread. Credit: ia-yakel

B’s Cracklin’ cornbread. Credit: Mia Yakel.

B’s Cracklin’ Barbecue, which stands in a tidy, no frills building on Main Street in Riverside, is where you’ll find celebrated Savannah-by-way-of-South Carolina pit master and owner Bryan Furman and his crave-worthy whole hog pork, ribs, chicken and brisket.

Furman also features some very good signature sides, including juicy collard greens, custardy baked macaroni and cheese, and meaty South Carolina-style hash and rice. And you must try his famous peach mustard barbecue sauce, which he says he infuses with peaches “to give it some Georgia flavor” so it’s not like straight-up Carolina mustard sauce.

But don’t overlook what the menu too simply describes as cornbread.

“It’s just a regular cornbread recipe from my grandmother,” Furman says. “I just cook it on a flattop griddle. And, actually, for the amount we sell, I’m going to need to get a bigger one.”

Furman agrees, what his cornbread most resembles is commonly called a hoecake — a pancake-like mix of cornmeal, lard, salt and boiling water that’s griddled and flipped in a sizzling greased pan. The result is a golden disc that’s crispy at the edges, with a delicately light crumb, and a decadently buttery flavor.

At B’s Cracklin’ you get one piece with a barbecue plate. But you can order three as a side, which you most definitely should do. And if you want go even further, order the cracklin’ cornbread, studded with smoky bits of crispy, fatty pork rinds.

2061 Main St. N.W., Atlanta. 678-949-9912, bscracklinbbq.com.

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