Dish of the Week: Beef Heart Tartare at the Wrecking Bar
Beef heart is one of those criminally undervalued cuts of beef, the kind that’s worth a million bucks with the right touch and an open mind. Of course, most people who hear “heart” don’t feel that way. They often think of over-powering iron taste of liver or other offal, or just can’t get over eating such a organ. But, in fact, the flavor of a beef heart is clean, the texture smooth. Cut right and treated gently, it is lovely.
The beef heart tartare at Wrecking Bar is a nice gateway dish, the kind where someone who might be squeamish about eating heart can ease into the idea. Served with an egg yolk atop and a stack of toast to use for spreading, you might not notice the difference between this and another classic beef tartare. But pay close attention: you appreciate the smooth, firm texture of the hand chopped heart and the clean, beefy finish. Maybe next time, you’ll feel different about the heart.
Wrecking Bar Brewpub, 292 Moreland Avenue, Atlanta. 404-221-2600, wreckingbarbrewpub.com.